Friday, June 26, 2009

Prochain arret: Paris

The weekend after was still in April, so I'm guessing I didn't do much but recover and hang out with kids. That Monday night, however, was the Feria de Sevilla party hosted by our sevillans so we put big flowers in our hair and ate the typical foods and drank the typical drinks to celebrate. Then of course we headed out to Irish, I assume. Damn, I just realized that these posts are so out of date I won't be able to remember all the details! Lucky you! Maybe that will make me catch up to the present sooner. Probably not.




That Wednesday I had another oral presentation, this time in genres litteraires which apparently is a course for students looking to become french language teachers. Seeing as that is not at all the case for me, I was at a slight disadvantage. I presented Silence de la mer by Vercors, which is short but pretty symbolic, so I set up this powerpoint with lots of bullets so people could kind of have a clue what I was saying. Then I get to the classroom, where my laptop test had passed with flying colors the week before, but naturally on the day of, it wouldn't work with the projector. My french (not swiss) teacher knew these slides were necessary, so she had the whole class gather around my laptop. Everyone was super close to me and I had to make awkward eye contact the whole time. I think it went really well, I was really comfortable and not reading a script but actually discussing for the 45 minutes. Then she gave me the customary review in front of the class saying how she's not against accents or anything, but that mine is terrible and she could only understand 1 out of every 5 words. Bullshit. If she had stopped inspecting her nails and the ceiling panels long enough to pay attention, that wouldn't be the case. She recommended I go to the learning center and listen to tapes to get better. What a blow to the self-confidence.

Who cares though, my grade was fine, and right after the presentation I packed for Paris. Pas mal. The next morning--bright and early--I took the TGV and passed by giant yellow fields (some plant used for oil) that I saw between nodding off.














When I arrived at the station, I was supposed to meet the one and only Sarah Tishler at the "clock". So I'm walking all around and don't find a clock, I asked someone who looked Parisian where a big clock was and he didn't even know one existed. Eventually I found it, and with the clock, the Tish. It was great to see her again, but very brief since she had to go to class and I had to meet Tufts kids for a little afternoon exploring.

I decided to walk from the Gare de Lyon to the Louvre to meet Sarah Cleary. I had google mapped it before and just walked quickly with the Seine to my left














until (eventually) I found the big glass pyramids I had seen in French classes over and over.



















Since I had taken a few accidental detours on the way, I was a few minutes late and apparently Sarah left and went home. I waited around till she called and then she came back; luckily she lived near by. We walked through the Tuileries Garden until we could see the Arc de Triomphe in the distance then had to turn around to go meet another girl on the Tufts in Paris program who I didn't know, but also to meet Katherine Sadowski who I do know! to get some food since I really hadn't eaten all day. We ended up striking out, because I only wanted a little snack and all around the Louvre and gardens prices were like a million dollars for nothing I was interested in.

Sarah and her friend wanted dessert instead, so we split up and I went with Katherine.














We eventually found a boulangerie and my baguette sandwich with brie and salmon had never ever tasted better. Katherine filled me in on Tufts in Paris, which wasn't her best decision to do as it turns out, but shit happens and she made the best of it. Then we walked from the musee d'orsay where we were eating across town to pick up the RER train to Tishler's apartment. We walked along a really nice boulevard along the way.

I took the RER to the middle of nowhere where Tish's apartment is, and she was waiting for me on the steps. I had just eaten, but she was starving, so we set out to go to her university's dining hall. I got to see her little park and her neighborhood on the way which was nice and less busy than the more touristy areas I had been walking through earlier. We got to the place and she treated me to a meal where each dish is like a point or two and you have 6 points or something. I don't know, but it was free and not unedible and we had fun catching up on life. (In between me refilling the water jug which took foreverr) It was really interesting to talk to her right after Katherine, because she absolutely loves Paris. It's funny how the same place can get completely different reactions.

Then we went and watched the sunset on a pieton bridge that faces the musee d'orsay.














The bridge was filled with students picnicking with baguettes, cheese, and wine and playing guitars--and, of course, smoking. There was also a big crowd on a point of the river that screamed every time a big tour boat went by. Speaking of the big tour boats, they filled the river, and cast giant spotlights on both banks. Apparently this makes night photography easier, but in the big scheme of things its really just light pollution and probably sucks for the people living on either side.

















Then we took a night walk through Paris, hitting up more monuments. It was a beautiful night, but Tish had to pee reallllly bad and at night in Paris, unless you are dining, there is really no place to do it. Our destination was the Eiffel Tower (I wanted to see it lit up at night!) so we figured there'd be public ones there. As we approached the tower, you could see it lit up and every so often it would glitter like a giant christmas tree. When we got a good view of it, we saw some tourists pretending to hold it up in their hand for a picture. We got a better idea, long story short. It was pretty hilarious, but pictures are probably not going up here. Instead I'll put one of me after getting called out for doing it:



















The closer we got, the more and more people there were selling light up mini towers. They all sold the same exact ones and there was at least a hundred of them--doubt they make any money. Naturally there were no open public restrooms at night (sorry, sarah) and we decided it wasn't worth it to go up, but that we should head back to her apartment where there was one waiting. In the mean time, we had a photo shoot with japanese tourists, they took our picture and we took theirs until we got the angle and lighting just right.



















During this, we almost got hit by a mechanical bird that some vendors were selling along with their light-up towers. We eventually got back to the apartment and I curled up for a nice night on her floor, I don't really mind where I sleep anymore.

The next morning we got up and ready to start hitting all the sights left on the list she made me make of places I wanted to see. Next stop was the Sacre Coeur.














This place was a tourist zoo, especially because of the gorgeous weather, and you had to make sure to hold your purse.














Along the way some vendors grabbed my arm to try to get a bracelet on it before I could say no and I hit them. Serves them right for grabbing me. We finally got up there and saw the gorgeous view and then had to wind through impossibly crowded streets to get breakfast picnic materials. We got a baguette and some jam and headed back to the sacre coeur to meet Sara Deforest (no h here) a Tufts friend also from upstate NY who knows Sarah through a chain of relationships in high school--small world.

It was a sweet picnic with a sweet view, but then we parted from Defo and headed to Notre Dame. The line was super long, so I left Tish in it and went to find a bathroom. Luckily I found a Subway nearby (and it was like the US embassy to me--mitch hedberg anyone?) but the line there was long too--and it cost a euro--so by the time I got back, she was no longer in line. I didn't have my phone with me so I looked all around and couldn't find her anywhere. I ended up standing at the entrance for a good 20 minutes, while she was apparently sitting down somewhere else until we finally met up again. Then we decided to cut the line anyway. It was cool inside, nice big stain glass windows and vaulted ceilings, but a cathedral is a cathedral and I think I've seen too many of them this semester!








After that we headed to the old Jewish ghetto, because it's pretty and has amazing falafel. I know it's weird to get falafel in Paris, but she made me do it and it was delicious. We sat down and ate in a nearby park and saw a guy walking his giant rabbit on a leash. Yes, it was a rabbit.

Then we walked through I think the gardens of the Palais Royal (which we weren't allowed into the night before because we got there at 8:44 and it closed at 8:45 and the guards were power tripping). And nearly into none other than a labor day manifestation! Leave it to the French to publicly voice their rights. We tried to avoid walking through it though, because it was massive. The massive-ness didn't allow us to completely avoid it, so we bumped into it a few blocks down. There were groups protesting everything, and people of all ages--little kids played a big role. There were flyers all over the ground and parades and loud speakers and a guy dressed up as Sarkosy that people were boo-ing, and food to keep the protesters protesting.














All the while we had been carrying a lot of food and wine with us since the Jewish quarter, because everything was closed or closing early due to Labor Day. We then went to the Louvre because its free entry on Monday nights, but Labor Day also meant the Louvre was closed, so I was bummed but instead had Tishler describe to me everything I may have recognized inside. Then we went in search of a plastic knife (we didn't bring one for fear of Louvre security) and plastic cups even though most stores were closed. We found a guy in a restaurant who didn't have either, but instead took our tomato and sliced it for us then rapped it in several bags to make it less messy. Then we found a guy willing to give us ice cream cups. Sometimes its useful being a girl. We eventually brought this stuff back to the pieton bridge where we met Sarah's friend, other Sara, and Leroy Prowse (another Tufts kid on Sara's program) so we could have our picnic as the sunset just like all the other Parisian students.














It was a little cold and windy as the sun set, but we had our wine to keep us warm as well as French cheeses (some stinkier than others), baguettes, strawberries, and other food too. We were so cold that we drank the wine super fast and it was interesting standing up later. But the sunset was so beautiful that we did prom photos and then peaced out.

From there we went to an interesting bar Defo had heard about that had a lot of character, I think mostly middle eastern and some influence by Andy Warhol. We stayed there for awhile, hoping dancing would commence given the good dj and wooden dance floor, but when it never did, we decided to head back. I was switching to Sara's place that night, in favor of a bed.










Defo was with a homestay, but a very odd one. Odd in that they didn't give her any meals and didn't let her use the washing machine, but she could have visitors and overnight guests (aka me). We tiptoed in and went to bed. In the morning, bright and early, I had to go to the bathroom so I had to pass the two elderly host parents and speak french right away. I usually need a break in the morning. But I did it, and they were surprised I could speak French so well--go tell that to Madame Banon of genre litteraires.

I took a run around her family's neighborhood, which had flowery tree lined boulevards that led me to a park that led me to a lake. It was very beautiful and relaxing.

After that, we hit my last stop on the list--the arc de triomphe.



















We went and met Tish there and I took pictures, and then we explored the champs elysees. The whole time we did so, I couldn't get Ohhh Champss Elyseess OHHHH champs elyseees! out of my head, but it was ok. We wanted to sit and drink, but that whole street is super crowded and a giant rip off, so we went on the side streets to find coffee. We sat down in a small cafe/restaurant and the 2 Sara(h)s ordered coffees, and I don't really drink coffee, so I said nothing for me. The guy proceeded to remove everything from our table saying that this is a restaurant and unless we were going to order we needed to leave. So we left, which was kind of embarrassing, and went to another place where I split a really interesting cheese bread puff thing with Defo and we weren't kicked out or anything.

The weather was looking iffy, but I still didn't want to do a museum day, so we tested our luck and went to another park. This was Sara's choice, and I think it was my favorite because it had the most grass and flowers of any (most of the others had really no grass to sit or play on). We sat down in the sun and people watched--we people watched, not people watched us. There was even a guy with a magic ball that I couldn't stop watching. We walked around the park for awhile and felt bad for a family of ducks that was outside the fence for the pond.










Me and Defo went back to her place to get ready for a dinner party hosted by her friends who attend the Cordon Bleu--aka amazing chefs-to-be. It was a small dinner party, but they cooked enough for like a million people and same goes for the many drinks they made as well. It was a one million course meal with a Mexican theme and the food never stopped. It was incredible, I wish I went to a top notch culinary school or had more friends that did...!

We stumbled back to the metro and somehow walked right inside.



















Again we snuck quietly into the house. Defo said it took her only like 20 minutes to get to the gare de lyon from her place, so the next morning I left 45 minutes ahead to get to my 7:58am train. The trains were infrequent and slow because it was so early in the morning on a Sunday, and I was getting super stressed I'd miss my train. I got to the station at 7:57 and shot out of the subway. By the time I ran up to the platforms it was 7:59 and my train was already no where to be found.

Then panic sunk in because I had only taken such an early train because the rest were already booked weeks in advance. I went desperately to the ticket counter and the woman looked and looked and said all the trains were full--the best I could do was wait in the station and ask the conductors of each train if a spot was available. I had no choice about getting back that day because I had to meet with my group to prepare an oral presentation in my strategic management class the following morning whose solution was due the Wednesday right after.

I again freaked out (traveling alone is stressful!) and tried my luck with a friendlier-looking male teller. I laid it all out for him. I said I have a eurail pass that covers all of France, Switzerland, and Italy and I have to get back to somewhere in Switzerland before tomorrow. He felt bad for me and spent a really long time searching every possible combination of these 3 countries. He eventually found one possibility that took me from Paris, to another french city, to another (Chambery) where I would have a 5 hour lay over and then finally a train to Lausanne in la suisse and I could take it from there. With this plan, I left 1 hour later than originally planned, but got in 11 hours later. I took it.

In Chambery, a nervous-looking teenager asked me if this was the stop and once I said yes she clung to me like white on rice. She didn't speak French and had to take a train to somewhere in Italy, so she had me go ask everyone and everything her questions for her and then translate. I was trying to get away because she kept holding on to me and my back pack, and clearly everyone in the trainstation could have spoken to her in English. After about 45 minutes of trying to help her, I left her in the area where the buses leave from and she finally let go of me. Then I walked around Chambery and got some lunch--my first ever kebab in Europe, which is actually very bizarre since every European city I've been to has many many kebab shops. I ate it in this nice park and then decided to go rent a bike to fill my time. I took the bike and biked along a path through the French alps (it looked a lot like Annecy, so I don't think I was too far away) with my destination at a lake. The path was filled with people since it was so nice out and Sunday.














But I got to the lake and turned back. It started to rain when I dropped off the bike and I still had more than an hour until my next train. I bought some food and ate really slowly.

I got back to Fribourg around midnight. Exhausted. But before Monday.

Observations French, but really Parisian, edition:

-They're big on protesting and having their voices heard.
-Baguettes + cheese + wine = staples.
-Could (most of them) have sticks any higher up their asses?
-Parks without grass.
-"Cultured"
-Big smokers.
-Tishler says women use all different types of creams instead of exercising to look good, she could be right.
-Paris = the French NYC
-Everything is closed on Labor Day.
-Picnics are popular in spring time.
-They have infamously nice lingerie, but it's all small chested. They also have great shoes, but again, too small.
-No one, or almost no one, actually wears barets.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Mes Parents à Fribourg

My parents arrived in Switzerland the day I got back from spring break, and I was exhausted, but it was so nice to see them. The first thing I did was to take them to Chocolat Villard which is the chocolate factory in Fribourg that produces our canton's chocolate. We ordered hot chocolates, which are made the way hot chocolate should be--melting real chocolate. Then I took them on an abbreviated tour of Fribourg before the sun started to set, through the old city and across the Sarine. After that they settled in the hotel and we went out to dinner at a nice Italian restaurant even though they had just come from Italy. I tried to do most of the talking in these places because my mom's french is a little rusty/hard to understand and my dad's is nonexistant. Sometimes he would speak to the waiters in English as if they knew what he was saying--nope. Anyway it's more funny than anything else and eating out in Switzerland was definitely a change.

That night was Monday night, so somehow, I managed to go out to Kasia's birthday party and crazy monday after getting almost no sleep in the previous 2 days, I'm sure that didn't help my recovery, but you gotta do what you gotta do. (I chose this picture also because of all the happiness!)














The next morning I almost went to class, well I went, saw it was going to be in German, and snuck out. Then I took my parents to Gruyère. Somehow we got lost on the way, my dad drove over a raised rotary instead of around it, and we almost got all the way down to Montreux. Turns out we made a wrong turn when we were right there, and I think that decision was probably my fault. When we did actually get there, we went to the cheese factory of Gruyère in time for the tour and demonstration! They gave us cheese samples and a headset where Daisy the cow told us the story of milk and cheese production in Switzerland. Then the demonstration involved them turning on a machine that stirred the milk curds. We agreed that the highlight of this experience was the cheese samples. I do not recommend the museum-esque part.

After Daisy, we hiked up the trail to the old city of Gruyère.














It is a small town on a hill with a sweet castle on one side. Every restaurant was offering Fondue and Raclette and Quiche, basically the exact same menu so I wonder how they all stay in business. It was still pretty early after we saw the whole (small) city, so we decided to get a map and take a hike.














The trail went down from the city to the river where we passed by the cows responsible for the famous cheese.
(The one on the right ;-) ) (just kidding, mom!)













I kept mooing at the cows to all look at me at the same time and voilà!














Right before we were about to cross a covered bridge, a street cleaner passed by us and decided to "clean" it first--typical Swiss right? Problem was that it stirred up so much dust and dirt that was trapped that we couldn't cross for a really long time. Once the dirt settled we crossed and took this path along the river.














It was a beautiful nature walk, I wouldn't call it a hike. On our way back, it started to rain even though the sun was out, so we got soaked really fast but then it stopped just as suddenly as it started. The hike back up to Gruyère was tough on my parents, so I gave my mom a piggy back ride for some of it. When we got up to the city it was time for raclette, especially since I had never tried it before. We pretty much did eeny meeny miny mo to choose the restaurant and went inside a cute looking one. We got raclette for the 3 of us which was a block of gruyere cheese on a melting block that you scraped off every time the top layer melted and applied to potatoes, pickles, onions, and bread.














It didn't see too different from fondue to me; the only difference was that you bring the cheese to the food instead of the food to the cheese. I guess there is not much flexibility with melted cheese meals.

Then it was Wednesday and I had classes in the middle of the day, so they went to Montreux without me to see where I will be working this summer and have now explored the city more than I have. I took them to my favorite view of Fribourg and a much bigger tour of the city.




























That night, since we were already in the basse-ville, we stayed there for drinks and dinner. We went to this restaurant on the German side and when it came to ordering drinks, I didn't know the French translations. The only 2 I knew were rum and coke and gin and tonic, neither of which I wanted and I don't think the waitress believed I was old enough to drink hard liquor anyway so I felt embarrassed and pressured and ended up without a drink. That was a weird experience. Then we went in to eat and I had fresh lake fish from Neuchatel and it was ok again.

The next day, my parents and I went up to the top of the cathedrale st-nicolas--another thing I had been waiting to do till they came. The view was great, 360 degrees only interrupted by gothic spires.




























Then we went in and checked out the inside of the cathedral. (Giant organ)



















Next stop was Yverdon-les-bains to go to the thermal baths. We drove to Yverdon and explored a little around the tiny city and then walked along the lake (Neuchâtel).














I finalllly got my mom to drink out of a public fountain (you can drink out of almost any in Switzerland) but she only did it because it was shaped like a turtle and I did it first.














We went back to the baths, and went through the 3 different outdoor pools of different temperatures with different relaxation stations. It smelled of sulfur and other minerals, but I think that stuff is good for your skin. In the hottest bath, there was a flashing light that I thought meant get out youve been in too long! But it in fact signaled station changes as a series of jets massaged you starting from you ankles and ending at your neck, I felt like jello after! Since none of us knew we had to bring our own towels we headed to the solar room to dry off and my dad and i ended up passing out. When we got up we tried to find lunch, but it was about 3 or 4 in the afternoon and apparently they don't serve food at that time in Swiss restaurants, just drinks until dinner. Instead we found a grocery store that had pizza and ate it in the central plaza. While we were eating a team of police men and police dogs ran by. They were training the dogs and who had to track down this guy that was running in and out of shops, they got a nice big crowd to watch and when the dog succeeded everybody clapped, yay! When we got back to Fribourg we had a really nice dinner again, not bad having your parents visit.

Friday was my parents last full day in la suisse, so we took a trip to Interlaken to see the my favorite place in springtime.














I think I preferred it when it was snowy and the mountains were majestic and white instead of green, but it was still beautiful. We took a long walk around one of the lakes, but with only 3ish hours on the car meter.

































So when we were half way and there was a restaurant nearby we almost had to run, but never found it because the guy pointing it out to us had us look for this red thing and I think we all saw a different red thing--oh yeah I see it/it's right next to that--and had to turn back. Around that time, the typical afternoon mountain storm rolled in and we were hurrying through it. We stopped to get lunch, but realized we didn't have time and went the rest of the way back.

When we got back to Interlaken and somehow like 3 hours were still left on our parking meter (so glad we rushed back), but we drove to the other side of the city anyway. There we found a cute cafe for lunch and tried to practice our German, and then got souvenirs for all my family members. We checked out the old city--somewhat of a disapointment since there's nothing there, really--then saw the casino which my dad claims he remembered from his last visit.
The casino is beautiful and surrounded by flowers and the alps and has a great reception room, if it weren't so far away from the us i'd consider having my wedding there ;-)
















The great thing about the city of Interlaken is that you can see the alps at the end of every road



















and also that they have signs like this one: I'm sorry, I had to...














By the time we got back to Fribourg, the 2 weeks of constantly doing things and not getting any sleep had caught up to me and I felt really sick. Since they were leaving early in the morning, I decided to come out to dinner anyway and just get some soup. We went to another nice restaurant--where I saw my belgian symbolism teacher but didn't say bon soir because he was in a big group--and I got some good soup and weird conversations with the waiter. He was an interesting fellow and I'll leave it at that. Then I said goodbye to my parents and stayed in. and slept.


Further Swiss Observations (some of which I've come up with since, but I have no idea the exact time I first observe these things, I'm not perfect, you know):
-Gas is super expensive, you don't realize it until you try driving here.
-Rotaries are meant to be driven around and not through.
-Some of the highway signs are in purple--feels like you're in Disney World.
-Spring in Switzerland is either gorgeous or rainy but mostly rainy, my parents lucked out.
-Raclette and fondue are not very different.
-Swiss cheese factory tours are not worth your time. Swiss cheese is.
-Rules are rules and are not meant to be bent or broken, but followed.
-There are cows everywhere here and they eat well and do hill work outs. You should see some of the slopes they live on.
-Window screens don't exist.
-Doors must be closed during class.
-Saying bonjour/bonsoir/hallo is more of a formality than a friendly greeting.
-Sports bras are discouraged.
-Capris for men on the other hand are accepted and even encouraged.
-People have no shame in giving you the once (or twice) over.

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Vacances de Pâques Part 2

In case you didn't read the last post, its the morning of April 16th and I'm leaving Ferrara, Italy for Athens, Greece. I've always always always wanted to go to Greece, and one of my friends from Indonesia happens to live in Athens. Unfortunately since she was visiting a friend in China before the Greek Orthodox Easter, we only overlapped vacation time from Thursday to Sunday, but I decided to go anyway. To save a lot of money, I took a flight out of Milan Malpensa airport. I had to take the train from Ferrara to Bologna to Milan. Once I got to Milan I had to--once I eventually found it--take the metro somewhere (easier said than done in Italian) so that I could take another train, that apparently did not count on my Eurail pass to the airport that itself cost 15 euro for under an hour, after all this and the return trip which I'll describe later, I'm not sure how much I ended up saving.

On the train to the airport, there was one other guy in my car that was probably in his early 30s, just sitting there picking his nose and eating it... for some reason, I feel like if you're still doing that by the time you turn thirty, you need a lifestyle change. I got through the airport without a single person checking my passport--aka no stamp to prove I've been to Greece (or Italy or Spain or France for that matter). These days when I go through airport security, I bring my SIGG water bottle, but drink it all before I get there and refill it once inside. For some reason, I had forgotten to finish drinking the water before I got to security and I asked the guy if I could empty it in the trash and he informed me that I could not, but instead that I would have to leave the line and go back to a restroom to empty it. I didn't feel like waiting in line again, so I stood there and chugged the entire thing in front of him. He wasn't a happy camper, especially since it took me so long, but it worked and I got through.

This plane had assigned seating and included drinks and snacks, so for me it was a luxury flight. There were also very few people on the plane so I got to stretch out by a window. It was a long flight, but I was super excited when I was landing in Athens and I could see lots of tiny white houses scattered among the mountains all around the Mediterranean Sea. In the Athens airport everything was written in Greek and also in English. The more I've traveled, the more I've come to appreciate how useful growing up in an anglophone country is, you can almost always find someone that can at least speak a little English.

My Greek friend, Amalia, had suggested I take a taxi to her house since it was pretty cheap in Greece and I wouldn't get lost. I went to the first taxi in line, and got in. I realized then that I didn't know a single word of Greek, not even hello (ya or yassas) or thank you (efharisto) and that I was vulnerable and a perfect person to take advantage of. I read the address of my friend and we set off. Keep in mind that driving in Greece is very scary because everyone drives super fast and not that carefully. I was watching the price ticker the whole way since I only had 40€ in cash on me and didn't want to run out. About 2/3 of the way there, we stopped at a traffic light and the ticker went blank. I thought that was odd, and it was, and when we got to my friends house he made up a price for me--40€. I asked isn't that a bit much and he mentioned something about an airport fee and an easter fee (it was now orthodox easter) and since there was really nothing I could do, I gave him all of my money. I walked down the street to Amalia's house, even though I knew she wouldn't get in from China until about 2am and I didn't know her family. I buzzed in and her mom welcomed me and introduced me to her sister and offered me massive amounts of food. When I told her how much the taxi cost she said I was robbed, and I should've called her down to pay. Little did I know, but it should have only cost maybe 15-20 euro to get back and the easter fee was 1€. Thanks taxi driver, asshole.

Her mom made me a delicious greek-style omelet, and gave me greek olives and black bread and wine. Then me and her younger sister went for a walk around the neighborhood with the dog (not on a leash and not neutered). I noticed that no one really picks up after their animals, so you have to watch your step--also because of all the stray dogs and cats everywhere and the crazy drivers--and the sister explained it as Greeks keep the insides of their homes spotless, but don't give a shit about what they do outside of it. That night I watched the Illusionist with Greek subtitles with the sister and her crazy friend and fell asleep before Amalia arrived.

Amalia had to fly from China to somewhere to London, switch airports that are on opposite sides of the city before she could fly into Athens. She got in late and felt sick and slept in the next day. In the mean time, I went on a run around her neighborhood and found a hill that overlooked the city. The streets were windy and confusing, but I didn't get lost. Then her mother set up a huge breakfast for me and I hung around the house waiting for Amalia to wake up. She finally did and it was really nice to see her. It was late afternoon by the time we took the brand new, clean subway to the acropolis. We got out and walked through the streets that were filled with street convenience stores and souvenir shops (we were at the base of the acropolis) that sold the lucky eye jewlery and greek olives.














We walked through neighborhoods where I saw my first typically greek, white-washed, square houses.














It was their easter weekend so we got to go to the acropolis for free, which was nice. We saw this stadium that was have ruins, half redone.










































The view was great, but sadly when we got to the top the parthenon was underconstruction--just like every other major monument this semester--so I had to take pictures of the one corner that wasn't in scaffolding.



















It was pretty sweet seeing all the things I had learned about in Latin class (different language, but they have the same gods and stuff) and I took a picture of all the types of columns, ie ionic, doric, corinthian, and even caryatid! Haha, I know, what a nerd.




























We climbed down onto a nearby rock outcropping where she used to go with her friends at night. It was really slippery in flip flops, but we made it there and eventually down the outcropping. We stopped at an outdoor cafe type thing where everyone was drinking their thick greek coffee--which apparently looks better than it tastes, I wouldn't know since I'm not a coffee-fan.

After that we walked through the street markets as the church bells rang slowly but continuously all day (yay for easter) and looked around more ruins. We went to a museum, but only for a quick scan. Then we walked through more markets and I had my first turkish delight, which was delightful. I was looking the whole time for one of those eye bracelets, but we decided I could get it at the big market when we went to the island of Aegina on Sunday.



















Went into a little Greek orthodox church where everyone was doing the cross thing and then kissing everything in sight. Orthodoxy is big on icons, so the kissing of the icons shows some type of reverence and respect. Either way, I felt awkward in such a tiny church because I was clearly the only one not kissing anything. We went into a bigger one next door and I was able to get a more comfortable view of everything since at least I wasn't obviously being sacrilegious.

We headed back on the subway, where I brought up how nervous I was that I would have to stay overnight in an outdoor train station (my return flight had been changed) and Amalia told me the creepiest true story ever about public transportation. I won't write it here, but I'll tell you in person if you're interested. Definitely pretty freaky. Apparently, we got back later than we were supposed to and the fish was getting cold. But it was actually still fine and it was the typical greek fish whose name I forgot. I got the body (still in the skin) but everyone else was eating the head too, eyeballs and everything intact. It was interesting but didn't look too appetizing, especially when one of the eyes rolled over the table. We also had a typical greek salad, this really good pea and oil stuff, and other food--every time I said I was full, I was given more to eat. Very Greek.

That night we went to her grandparents house. They were a really old, really cute, really greek couple that didn't speak any English, but I smiled a lot. That night we were supposed to go out but Amalia was too tired from her jet lag, so I started watching a movie with them that was bad so I went to go watch Wall-e which I lost interest in after about an hour without dialogue. Sorry.

The next morning I was ready to go to the beach, but since we were still on Greek time, we got there at about 2pm. Her mom drove us, which was nice, and we went to a beach near Athens. The first one wasn't opened yet for the season, so we went to the second one, which was okay.














We got some sun, and I braved the cold water to go swimming. It was nice to be at the sea. When we were waiting for Amalia's friends to come pick us up we climbed up some rocks and realized there was a beach on the other side that was way bigger and nicer. Oh well, the grass is always greener. Her friend picked us up and we met his friends and drove along the cost at a billion miles an hour, but the coast was beautiful so it was ok.














It included the most greek picture ever, complete with flag and temple of poseidon:














We went to a taverna, which Amalia said I had to go to in Greece, and let her friends order for us. You get a bunch of small dishes like tapas in Spain. They ordered me ouzo which is the Greek liquour that tastes like black licorice. We ate everything from raw squid to little fishes to greek salad to unidentified objects, but it was all very good. When I went to pay for my part, her friend paid both for me and Amalia, which I thought was way too generous for someone you just met, but very nice. Then we drove to a cafe to get coffee (they love doing that). Afterward me and Amalia took a bus, even though neither of us knew what we were doing. It took almost 2 hours for some reason to get back, but we got back and had enough time to shower and get ready for the midnight easter celebration. We went to a church, apparently not her church, and tried to blend in. The midnight ceremony takes place outdoors at midnight, so you didn't have to dress nice and people were wearing jeans and stuff.

You bring a candle and pass the flame around to everyone and then the priests come out in the their black hats and bring in Easter. At midnight, kids starting throwing fireworks all around right next to you so you have to be on your toes. It was really exciting.

Then we went back to their grandparents house for the 1am celebratory feast. It involved a lamb stew that included every part of the lamb, ie stomach, heart, brain, intestines, you name it--but i ate it and had I not known the ingredients, would have judged as surprisingly tasty. They also eat meat to signal the end of lent and some other food, but no one was particularly hungry since it was 1 in the morning. The next day, my last day, we were going to go to Aegina for an Easter feast and then I'd come back early to get to my flight. The ferry was late, and by the time we got to the island I had under 2 hours to spend there. But the ferry ride was beautiful and refreshing with the salty wind, and the island was really pretty.














We looked around for the bracelet I wanted, not realizing that EVERYTHING would be closed on easter sunday, so I came out with only a bag of Aegina pistachios (they are known for them, and they were very tasty but don't last as a souvenir). Then Amalia's childhood friend drove us to their house where there was again, massive amounts of food and drink. There was even a full lamb and goat on a spit (my big fat greek wedding style).














I ate lamb and goat and everything and felt very adventurous. It was really relaxing and the patio overlooked the sea, but I had to leave once I finished eating--before dessert! The friend drove us back and as I was getting out of the car he freaked out and drove away, and the car door crashed into my arm. ow. We were on time for the ferry, but naturally the ferry was half an hour late. Then began my 18 hour journey alone back to Fribourg (which included: ferry, bus, subway, plane, shuttle, 4 trains, and a bike). I got back to Athens and waited for the bus. A weird French lady with too much make up sat down next to me to chat for awhile and then left-with no intention to take a bus, just wanted to chat. The bus came eventually, but it was on an Easter schedule, so I was late from the ferry and now even later on the bus. I had no idea how long the ride was and was nervous the whole way that I would miss my plane. We finally got to the airport and I jumped off the bus and literally ran through the airport. I ran through security, and almost left my phone there. I got to my gate just in time. Then I waited and waited and they didn't say anything. 15 minutes after we should have already taken off, the crew arrived and were sent off to the plane. Way to let us know about the delay. We took off over an hour late, which was a very greek way to end my greece trip.

I got to Milan Malpensa around 10 and took the 11 shuttle. I lucked out because it was reservation only and they were full, but 1 person didn't show up, so I got to get on. I chatted with the old man next to me, and he wished me luck on my overnight stay in the train station. We made it to Lugano around midnight so it was too late to take a train back, thanks Air One, so I looked around for a nice place to sleep. A creepy guy came over and talked to me in French so I said I lived in Lugano and had to go. Instead I took the last train out to some random place. I took 3 more local trains because I felt safer on them than in the station, and around 145am I had to stay in Lugano. I set up camp in the heated waiting room which is no longer heated, I found out, in the middle of then night. I put my bag with my laptop and all my money and ID under me and covered my face and hair with a running tshirt so they wouldn't be able to easily identify me as a woman. It was cold and I woke up every time I heard a creak, but I made it through the night and took the first train in the morning. It was miserable, but 4 trains later I was in Fribourg and took my bike straight to my econ class that I was already an hour late for.

That day I had another class and my parents were coming in to spend the week with me. I was exhausted but the two week marathon was only half way over!


Observations de la Grèce:
-Greek time is always late, you'll get there eventually no rush.
-I look very Greek, apparently.
-Greek orthodox easter is pretty sweet.
-Almost the entire population is Greek orthodox.
-The bells don't stop ringing all weekend for easter--all day and all night.
-They won't take no for an answer. Maybe because na means yes in Greek...
-Fancy coffee.
-Watch out for taxi drivers.
-One weekend is not enough, I didn't even get to see Santorini which is the quintessential greek island.
-Don't bike in Greece, unless you want to get run over.
-There are strays everyyyywhere.
-Good seafood.
-They are ridiculously hospitable.
-I only know their alphabet because of economics and calculus, oh and fraternities.
-Watch My Big Fat Greek Wedding for further observations.