On the train to the airport, there was one other guy in my car that was probably in his early 30s, just sitting there picking his nose and eating it... for some reason, I feel like if you're still doing that by the time you turn thirty, you need a lifestyle change. I got through the airport without a single person checking my passport--aka no stamp to prove I've been to Greece (or Italy or Spain or France for that matter). These days when I go through airport security, I bring my SIGG water bottle, but drink it all before I get there and refill it once inside. For some reason, I had forgotten to finish drinking the water before I got to security and I asked the guy if I could empty it in the trash and he informed me that I could not, but instead that I would have to leave the line and go back to a restroom to empty it. I didn't feel like waiting in line again, so I stood there and chugged the entire thing in front of him. He wasn't a happy camper, especially since it took me so long, but it worked and I got through.
This plane had assigned seating and included drinks and snacks, so for me it was a luxury flight. There were also very few people on the plane so I got to stretch out by a window. It was a long flight, but I was super excited when I was landing in Athens and I could see lots of tiny white houses scattered among the mountains all around the Mediterranean Sea. In the Athens airport everything was written in Greek and also in English. The more I've traveled, the more I've come to appreciate how useful growing up in an anglophone country is, you can almost always find someone that can at least speak a little English.
My Greek friend, Amalia, had suggested I take a taxi to her house since it was pretty cheap in Greece and I wouldn't get lost. I went to the first taxi in line, and got in. I realized then that I didn't know a single word of Greek, not even hello (ya or yassas) or thank you (efharisto) and that I was vulnerable and a perfect person to take advantage of. I read the address of my friend and we set off. Keep in mind that driving in Greece is very scary because everyone drives super fast and not that carefully. I was watching the price ticker the whole way since I only had 40€ in cash on me and didn't want to run out. About 2/3 of the way there, we stopped at a traffic light and the ticker went blank. I thought that was odd, and it was, and when we got to my friends house he made up a price for me--40€. I asked isn't that a bit much and he mentioned something about an airport fee and an easter fee (it was now orthodox easter) and since there was really nothing I could do, I gave him all of my money. I walked down the street to Amalia's house, even though I knew she wouldn't get in from China until about 2am and I didn't know her family. I buzzed in and her mom welcomed me and introduced me to her sister and offered me massive amounts of food. When I told her how much the taxi cost she said I was robbed, and I should've called her down to pay. Little did I know, but it should have only cost maybe 15-20 euro to get back and the easter fee was 1€. Thanks taxi driver, asshole.
Her mom made me a delicious greek-style omelet, and gave me greek olives and black bread and wine. Then me and her younger sister went for a walk around the neighborhood with the dog (not on a leash and not neutered). I noticed that no one really picks up after their animals, so you have to watch your step--also because of all the stray dogs and cats everywhere and the crazy drivers--and the sister explained it as Greeks keep the insides of their homes spotless, but don't give a shit about what they do outside of it. That night I watched the Illusionist with Greek subtitles with the sister and her crazy friend and fell asleep before Amalia arrived.
Amalia had to fly from China to somewhere to London, switch airports that are on opposite sides of the city before she could fly into Athens. She got in late and felt sick and slept in the next day. In the mean time, I went on a run around her neighborhood and found a hill that overlooked the city. The streets were windy and confusing, but I didn't get lost. Then her mother set up a huge breakfast for me and I hung around the house waiting for Amalia to wake up. She finally did and it was really nice to see her. It was late afternoon by the time we took the brand new, clean subway to the acropolis. We got out and walked through the streets that were filled with street convenience stores and souvenir shops (we were at the base of the acropolis) that sold the lucky eye jewlery and greek olives.
We walked through neighborhoods where I saw my first typically greek, white-washed, square houses.
It was their easter weekend so we got to go to the acropolis for free, which was nice. We saw this stadium that was have ruins, half redone.
The view was great, but sadly when we got to the top the parthenon was underconstruction--just like every other major monument this semester--so I had to take pictures of the one corner that wasn't in scaffolding.
It was pretty sweet seeing all the things I had learned about in Latin class (different language, but they have the same gods and stuff) and I took a picture of all the types of columns, ie ionic, doric, corinthian, and even caryatid! Haha, I know, what a nerd.
We climbed down onto a nearby rock outcropping where she used to go with her friends at night. It was really slippery in flip flops, but we made it there and eventually down the outcropping. We stopped at an outdoor cafe type thing where everyone was drinking their thick greek coffee--which apparently looks better than it tastes, I wouldn't know since I'm not a coffee-fan.
After that we walked through the street markets as the church bells rang slowly but continuously all day (yay for easter) and looked around more ruins. We went to a museum, but only for a quick scan. Then we walked through more markets and I had my first turkish delight, which was delightful. I was looking the whole time for one of those eye bracelets, but we decided I could get it at the big market when we went to the island of Aegina on Sunday.
Went into a little Greek orthodox church where everyone was doing the cross thing and then kissing everything in sight. Orthodoxy is big on icons, so the kissing of the icons shows some type of reverence and respect. Either way, I felt awkward in such a tiny church because I was clearly the only one not kissing anything. We went into a bigger one next door and I was able to get a more comfortable view of everything since at least I wasn't obviously being sacrilegious.
We headed back on the subway, where I brought up how nervous I was that I would have to stay overnight in an outdoor train station (my return flight had been changed) and Amalia told me the creepiest true story ever about public transportation. I won't write it here, but I'll tell you in person if you're interested. Definitely pretty freaky. Apparently, we got back later than we were supposed to and the fish was getting cold. But it was actually still fine and it was the typical greek fish whose name I forgot. I got the body (still in the skin) but everyone else was eating the head too, eyeballs and everything intact. It was interesting but didn't look too appetizing, especially when one of the eyes rolled over the table. We also had a typical greek salad, this really good pea and oil stuff, and other food--every time I said I was full, I was given more to eat. Very Greek.
That night we went to her grandparents house. They were a really old, really cute, really greek couple that didn't speak any English, but I smiled a lot. That night we were supposed to go out but Amalia was too tired from her jet lag, so I started watching a movie with them that was bad so I went to go watch Wall-e which I lost interest in after about an hour without dialogue. Sorry.
The next morning I was ready to go to the beach, but since we were still on Greek time, we got there at about 2pm. Her mom drove us, which was nice, and we went to a beach near Athens. The first one wasn't opened yet for the season, so we went to the second one, which was okay.
We got some sun, and I braved the cold water to go swimming. It was nice to be at the sea. When we were waiting for Amalia's friends to come pick us up we climbed up some rocks and realized there was a beach on the other side that was way bigger and nicer. Oh well, the grass is always greener. Her friend picked us up and we met his friends and drove along the cost at a billion miles an hour, but the coast was beautiful so it was ok.
It included the most greek picture ever, complete with flag and temple of poseidon:
We went to a taverna, which Amalia said I had to go to in Greece, and let her friends order for us. You get a bunch of small dishes like tapas in Spain. They ordered me ouzo which is the Greek liquour that tastes like black licorice. We ate everything from raw squid to little fishes to greek salad to unidentified objects, but it was all very good. When I went to pay for my part, her friend paid both for me and Amalia, which I thought was way too generous for someone you just met, but very nice. Then we drove to a cafe to get coffee (they love doing that). Afterward me and Amalia took a bus, even though neither of us knew what we were doing. It took almost 2 hours for some reason to get back, but we got back and had enough time to shower and get ready for the midnight easter celebration. We went to a church, apparently not her church, and tried to blend in. The midnight ceremony takes place outdoors at midnight, so you didn't have to dress nice and people were wearing jeans and stuff.
You bring a candle and pass the flame around to everyone and then the priests come out in the their black hats and bring in Easter. At midnight, kids starting throwing fireworks all around right next to you so you have to be on your toes. It was really exciting.
Then we went back to their grandparents house for the 1am celebratory feast. It involved a lamb stew that included every part of the lamb, ie stomach, heart, brain, intestines, you name it--but i ate it and had I not known the ingredients, would have judged as surprisingly tasty. They also eat meat to signal the end of lent and some other food, but no one was particularly hungry since it was 1 in the morning. The next day, my last day, we were going to go to Aegina for an Easter feast and then I'd come back early to get to my flight. The ferry was late, and by the time we got to the island I had under 2 hours to spend there. But the ferry ride was beautiful and refreshing with the salty wind, and the island was really pretty.
We looked around for the bracelet I wanted, not realizing that EVERYTHING would be closed on easter sunday, so I came out with only a bag of Aegina pistachios (they are known for them, and they were very tasty but don't last as a souvenir). Then Amalia's childhood friend drove us to their house where there was again, massive amounts of food and drink. There was even a full lamb and goat on a spit (my big fat greek wedding style).
I ate lamb and goat and everything and felt very adventurous. It was really relaxing and the patio overlooked the sea, but I had to leave once I finished eating--before dessert! The friend drove us back and as I was getting out of the car he freaked out and drove away, and the car door crashed into my arm. ow. We were on time for the ferry, but naturally the ferry was half an hour late. Then began my 18 hour journey alone back to Fribourg (which included: ferry, bus, subway, plane, shuttle, 4 trains, and a bike). I got back to Athens and waited for the bus. A weird French lady with too much make up sat down next to me to chat for awhile and then left-with no intention to take a bus, just wanted to chat. The bus came eventually, but it was on an Easter schedule, so I was late from the ferry and now even later on the bus. I had no idea how long the ride was and was nervous the whole way that I would miss my plane. We finally got to the airport and I jumped off the bus and literally ran through the airport. I ran through security, and almost left my phone there. I got to my gate just in time. Then I waited and waited and they didn't say anything. 15 minutes after we should have already taken off, the crew arrived and were sent off to the plane. Way to let us know about the delay. We took off over an hour late, which was a very greek way to end my greece trip.
I got to Milan Malpensa around 10 and took the 11 shuttle. I lucked out because it was reservation only and they were full, but 1 person didn't show up, so I got to get on. I chatted with the old man next to me, and he wished me luck on my overnight stay in the train station. We made it to Lugano around midnight so it was too late to take a train back, thanks Air One, so I looked around for a nice place to sleep. A creepy guy came over and talked to me in French so I said I lived in Lugano and had to go. Instead I took the last train out to some random place. I took 3 more local trains because I felt safer on them than in the station, and around 145am I had to stay in Lugano. I set up camp in the heated waiting room which is no longer heated, I found out, in the middle of then night. I put my bag with my laptop and all my money and ID under me and covered my face and hair with a running tshirt so they wouldn't be able to easily identify me as a woman. It was cold and I woke up every time I heard a creak, but I made it through the night and took the first train in the morning. It was miserable, but 4 trains later I was in Fribourg and took my bike straight to my econ class that I was already an hour late for.
That day I had another class and my parents were coming in to spend the week with me. I was exhausted but the two week marathon was only half way over!
Observations de la Grèce:
-Greek time is always late, you'll get there eventually no rush.
-I look very Greek, apparently.
-Greek orthodox easter is pretty sweet.
-Almost the entire population is Greek orthodox.
-The bells don't stop ringing all weekend for easter--all day and all night.
-They won't take no for an answer. Maybe because na means yes in Greek...
-Fancy coffee.
-Watch out for taxi drivers.
-One weekend is not enough, I didn't even get to see Santorini which is the quintessential greek island.
-Don't bike in Greece, unless you want to get run over.
-There are strays everyyyywhere.
-Good seafood.
-They are ridiculously hospitable.
-I only know their alphabet because of economics and calculus, oh and fraternities.
-Watch My Big Fat Greek Wedding for further observations.
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